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At this moody cantina in the East Village, he’s created a drink list that defies categorization and expectations:  websites control panel A concoction called Lipspin somehow pulls off an international mash-up of bianco tequila, sloe gin from England, and an Italian artichoke bitter; and the mezcal-and-cayenne-accented Water­melon Sugar delivers a biting surprise for anyone who thinks it’s going to be the sorority-girl drink its name suggests. (304 Ј 6th St., New York, 212-253-5888)

The Upgrade Nuestra Paloma

While there’s no deny¬ing the appeal of a fine margarita, there’s a lot to be said for diversity. This bracingly pungent grapefruit-tinged con¬coction is a breeze to assemble-good news, considering you’ll be ready for another one in free JoomlaJunkie templates

less time than it takes a bathing suit to dry.

1 lime, halved pinch of salt

2 oz bianco or reposado tequila, such as Herradura or Ј1 Jimador

chilled grapefruit soda, such as Squirt or farritos

Fill a tall glass with ice, squeeze and drop in the lime halves, add the salt and tequila, and top with the soda to taste.

Created by the ace bartenders at Beretta in San Francisco, this is not so much a riff on the basic Paloma as a full makeover: an elegant elderflower-laced cocktail in the guise of a laid-back summer cooler.

2 oz bianco tequila,

such as Patron Silver orSiete    Elemental – RocketThemeTemplate

Leguas * oz Cointreau *loz St. Germain ^ oz fresh grapefruit juice l oz fresh lime juice

3 (lashes Angostura bitters

i large strip of grapefruit zest

Combine all the ingredi¬ents except the grape¬fruit zest in a cocktail shaker, fill with ice, shake, and strain into a highball glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with the zest.

The Crowd-Pleaser La Vida Rosa

The Curveball

A Beer and a Smoke

A cocktail made with rose is a rare thing, but one that also suc¬cessfully incorporates tequila is too uncom¬mon to be missed. For this inspired charmer from Mayahuel in New York, be sure to start the infusion a few days ahead, and let the strawberries be your timer: When they turn white, it’s ready.

j (750 ml) bottle Monro tequila, such as Ј1 jimador

5 cups straivberries, hulled and cut into thirds

jzoz chilled dry tost

8 oz St. Germain

8 oz chilled club soda

sliced strawberries for gumish

Pour the tequila over the strawberry thirds, cover, and infuse at room temperature for three to four days, then

strain and store the te-quila in the refrigerator. One hour before serving, combine a cup of the infused tequila, the rose, and the St. Germain in a pitcher and refriger¬ate. To finish, top with the club soda and divide among eight small wine¬glasses, garnishing each with a few slices of fresh strawberry.

The singular kick of mezcal can raise all kinds of hell in a cocktail shaker. Fortunately, Jim Meehan of New York’s POT has managed to harness that swagger into a brooding, weirdly refreshing spin on the Michelada.

lime wedge celery salt

freshly ground black pepper

l oz mezcal

** oz fresh lime juice

4 dashes Cholala hot sauce

pinch of (cosher salt

i bottle chilled Mexican lager.

such as Paciftco. Modelo, or

DosEquis pinch of grated lime zest pinch of grated orange zest

Moisten the outer rim of a tall glass with the lime wedge, then coat lightly with celery salt and pepper. Add the mezcal, the lime juice, the hot sauce, the kosher salt, the lager, and a pinch of celery salt, then garnish with the citrus zest.

Siete Leguas Blanco ($34)  Cameras & Camcorders

The aged version might seem like the choice for sipping, but to really know what tequila tastes like, start with bianco. Also known as silver, it’s the pur¬est expression of the spirit, earthy and crisp. Should you happen upon a bottle from this distillery, one of Mexico’s oldest, buy it.

El Jimador Reposado ($18)    Rocky Mountain Radar

As a rule, tequila cocktails call for bianco or reposado tone notch up the aging scale). The latter is rested in oak from 2 to 11 months-long enough to soften the bite but not so long that it tastes wooden. For the price, it’s tough to beat El Jimador [from the makers of Herradura).

Sombra Mezcal ($47)

Underneath its tough rep, mezcal, tequila’s cousin, has a sensitive side. Its dis-tinguishing feature is that the agave is baked over mesquite and distilled over a wood fire, resulting in a unique smoky flavor (soft-ened, in the case of Som-bra. by a fruity sweetness and piercing citrus tang).

TO REALLY SAVORTHE LATE SUMMER, YOU

need a plan of action, but it doesn’t have to be more complicated than “drink tequila.” More than any other booze, tequila encap¬sulates the hot, hedonistic essence of the season. And should you still fear that epic morning after, it’s time to reconsider the li¬quor: The truly good stuff is more plentiful than ever and goes down a lot easier than you might remember—even if your preferred mode of consumption remains a shot glass.

She has lived her whole life in the pub­lic eye. “I started doing this, and I know it sounds absurd, but 11 months old, I did my first commercial.” The daughter of an actress and a New York City fire­fighter, Panettiere spent her childhood bouncing between 30-second spots and roles on One Life to Live and Guiding Light. “1 remember hearing in first grade, ‘Oh, why does she get to skip school?’” she says. “It wasn’t like I suddenly started feeling different. I always knew that I was. I never felt I missed out—in fact, it was like, ‘Oh, thank God I’m not that.’” Namely, she means, a regular kid.

It’s not easy being beautiful and spe­cial and talented, and Panettiere lived through her share of Mean Girls shit. Mostly homeschooled, she occasionally returned from acting gigs to her public school in Rockland County, New York, and her classmates’ wrath. In middle school, she was punched in the face by “a very angry, very sad girl,” she says, as if echoing the words her mom used to comfort her at the time. “I was tortured, emotionally tortured by these girls. Every time I came back from filming, it would be me trying to find my way back into the clique. And they weren’t having it.”  Uniting Nations

Panettiere seems to have emerged victorious from her teen trials. After a series of minor TV and movie roles, she was cast at age 16 as Heroes’ invincible cheerleader, Claire, and quickly blos­somed into the queen of high-school geeks of all ages. (Her new teen comedy, I Love You, Beth Cooper, is about a nerd who falls for the hottest, most popular girl in school—notice a trend?) When she was 18, photos began appearing of her with her then-30-year-old costar, Milo Ventimiglia—piggyback rides, cuddling, shopping excursions. The two steadfastly denied any romance, but the tabloids feasted. “When it comes to relationships, it’s nice to have something that is your own and not everyone else’s,” she says. “That’s not part of my job. I never stood up on a podium and said, ‘Vote for me— I’m perfect. I’ll be this for you and never do anything wrong.’”

The non-relationship relationship broke up in February, according to the tabloids, and Panettiere says she’s single. But soon after our lunch, photographs surface of the 19-year-old getting her back oiled on a yacht on the French Riviera by the 32-year-old Welsh TV personality Steve Jones, who’s been romantically linked to Pamela Anderson and Halle

Berry. There have been times when the media scrutiny was more than she could take. “It’s turned my life upside down and shaken it,” Panettiere says, referring to the incident in August 2008 in which her father was accused of hitting her mother and later charged with misdemeanor battery. Her father called it a misun­derstanding, saying, “Nothing actually happened,” then pleaded no contest. “It was very tough, especially since it’s my family,” Panettiere says. “It’s one thing if you do it to me. I get frustrated, but I can handle it. But when it involves my fam­ily, my friends, forget it—I lose my …” Panettiere pauses—then regains control. “I learned the game. The more I react, the angrier I get, the more satisfaction they get. That’s exactly what they want.”

As Panettiere drains her bowl of soup, two young Orthodox Jewish men who have been circling in front of the restau­rant finally come inside, holding cam­eras. “Excuse me. I’m sorry, I know this is extremely rude, but we’re from the East Coast and you’re the first famous person we’ve met. Is there any way I would be able to get a picture of you?”

“You don’t want to meet famous people.”

“If it’s possible, please,” the guy says. Panettiere puts down her spoon, and as they awkwardly drape their arms around her, she gives the camera a practiced look.

“Thank you so much. Thank you. I’m sorry,” they say as they back out of the restaurant, already reviewing the images on the camera.

“I gave them a half-smile,” she says matter-of-factly. “It’s a survival skill.” ■